Wednesday, 17 December 2014

BMC Junior Cups, Lead and Boulder, Round 1

On Saturday 29th November I competed in the Junior Lead Cup, Round 1, at Awesome Walls, Sheffield. Having been ill with a virus the week before I had not had the best preparation for this competition, and was slightly lacking in strength. However, I climbed fairly well and in the final was in joint 2nd place. With the count-back from the qualifiers I finished in 3rd place.

The following weekend, on Sunday 7th December, I competed at the Junior Boulder Cup, Round 1, in Derby. As in the previous week I finished the final in joint second, but was separated by count-back and finished 3rd overall. I was a little disappointed with these results, but it has been a long season and I am now looking forward to a break over the winter where I can focus on my training.

Due to my results throughout the year I have been selected again for both the GB Junior Lead (elite) and Boulder Teams for 2015.

At the Boulder Cup Rob Adie, from the BMC, presented me with the Trophy for winning the Senior BLCC. It had been engraved with my name alongside some very famous previous winners, e.g. Ian Vickers, Steve McClure, Gaz Parry, Ed Hamer and Dave Barrans.

Being presented with the BLCC trophy

World Lead Cup, Kranj, Nov 2014


I competed in my first senior international during the weekend of 14/16th November 2014. It was an amazing experience and very exciting. Having made some mistakes in the qualifiers, I finished in 42nd place, and was a little disappointed in my performance. However, the next week I was ill with a virus and off school, so I don't think I was competing at my best. It was still a fantastic learning opportunity and it was awesome to see the best climbers in the world, like Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert, competing.

With Adam Ondra
     

Siurana Oct 2014



I spent a really enjoyable week climbing in Siurana, Spain with my good friend Angus Davidson. On the first day we both climbed La Cara que no miente 8a+ which I was really psyched to get as it was a route I had tried on my last trip to Siurana three years ago :) On the second day I got Kale Borroka 8b+ which was also a really good route and my second of the grade.

The rest of the trip I spent working an 8c+ called Directa Cornualles which I got very close to but didn't manage to get. It was all down to a razor blade crimp, which by the time I had the beta, I didn't have the skin left to do it :( . I am really psyched to go back to finish the route hopefully some time in the near future.


Working Directa Cornualles

Angus and I look out across the valley

Bouldering at the Refugio!

Thursday, 9 October 2014

EYBC Austria, WYCC Noumea, New Caledonia, BLCC & BSCC Sheffield

Oh dear - I've not kept up to date with my blog again. Sometimes it's very hard to juggle training, comps, school and homework - and climbing always wins over writing!  Much has happened since I last blogged - so this is just going to be a short report on each event to bring you up to date.

European Youth Boulder Cup, Laengenfeld, Oetzal, 15-16 August

I competed with the GB Junior Bouldering Team at this event in Austria. I was happy with how I climbed in the qualifiers, quickly and efficiently making 7 tops, and I went through to the finals in 4th place. The final was tough, but I managed 2 tops and the bonus on the other problem. On my final problem I dug deep, on my 7th attempt as the clock was ticking, to make a tricky move and hang on for the top out. This climb gave me a second place podium finish, which I was very pleased with.

On the move that clinched my Silver medal

Here is a link to the BMC GB Junior Bouldering Report
gb-junior-bouldering-team-storm-to-dramatic-2014-season-climax

World Youth Climbing Championhip, Noumea, New Caledonia, 19-23 September

I travelled with the GB Junior Lead team to New Caledonia, in the Pacific Ocean, to compete at the World Youth Climbing Championship. As it is my first year in the Youth A category I knew that this was going to be a tough competition, but I had been training hard and hoped that if I climbed well I could make finals.
The GB Junior Lead Team for the WYCC

On one of our first days on the island, whilst out for a run, we spotted a snake. Being with the other boys on the team, we immediately prodded it (gently) with a stick to encourage it out of its hole. Later we discovered that it is a very venomous snake, more so than a Cobra! I didn't tell my Mum about that, until I was safely home!
The Knit Striped snake

During the Worlds I felt that I climbed well. I should have topped the first qualifier, but I went too dynamically for the second last hold which cost me the route. I placed 11th equal after this route. The second qualifier went really well and I was pleased to top out. I was in 4th equal place after both qualifying routes. 

After all the qualifiers were finished, all 7 of the GB Team had made it through to the semi-finals which was fantastic :) A great result for the GB Junior Lead Team!
Climbing hard at the WYCC

In the Semi-final my climb went quite well, although I made a couple of mistakes in the roof which wasted energy, so I dropped the climb at the last clip. However, it turned out I was first equal on this route and with the count-back from the qualifiers I was in 1st place. I was very happy to have made the finals and to have qualified 1st! I was also the only GB climber to have made the finals.
However, things didn't go so well in the Finals and I finished the competition in 8th place. In the Final, I was out last from isolation, and made a route reading mistake at some volumes. I don't think the pressure got to me, but its always hard when there is an expectation to do well. Although I was gutted with my climb in the finals, I will learn from my mistakes and be stronger for the next time. Things don't always go to plan but successful athletes move on and keep training hard!

It was a long journey to and from New Caledonia but it was a fantastic experience.

British Lead and Speed Championship, Sheffield, 4-5 October

On Saturday 4th October I competed at the junior event of the BLCC at Awesome Walls, Sheffield. I climbed well and topped both my qualifiers. I went into the final in joint first place with fellow GB Team member Jim Pope. I was last out from isolation to climb and found the final route not too difficult until the last section. I made a mistake going for the last hold and moved too statically and fell at this point. Jim Pope had topped the route and so I finished in 2nd place overall. I was disappointed, but really pleased for my friend Jim, who had climbed really well. Well done Jim!

On Youth A Final route 
As a forfeit for losing I had to wear the shirt I had bought in Noumea (whilst our cases were missing) and shades at dinner that night. 
Cool Dude!
On the Sunday I was competing in the Senior comp. This is the first year that I was old enough to compete in this event and I was really psyched for it. I was pleased to top both qualifiers, especially the second one as my foot popped near the top and I had to quickly grab hold and hang on to a sloper. I was the only competitor to top both routes so qualified for the final in first place.

Topping out on Qualifier 2


In the final I climbed well and made use of the rests. I knew that I would have to get very near the top to win. At the top I was getting pumped but fought on through a tough cross-through move and then fell from the second last hold. When I reached the ground I was told that I had won and I was thrilled. Lots of people came to congratulate me and I was very very happy!


On the Senior Male Final route 

The Senior Male Podium 
(Thanks to Zoe at Awesome Walls for the great photos)

After the finals it was time for the British Junior Speed Championship, which I had entered for fun. I enjoyed taking part in this and was pleased to finish in 2nd place. My brother, Alexander Bosi, was also competing in the Senior Speed event and finished in 2nd place - Well done Alexander!

Here is a link to the BMC report of the event.
british-lead-speed-climbing-championships-ifsc-paraclimbing-cup-2014

I was also delighted that my good friend Molly Thompson-Smith had retained her Senior female Lead Championship title, here we are together with our medals.

Senior Champions! Photo - Tony Smith


Due to winning the Senior Male British Lead Championship I have been invited to attend a Senior World Cup event at Kranj, Slovenia in November, which is very exciting. The hard work starts now!

Next up is a climbing trip with my great friend Angus Davidson to Siurana, Spain. We are both so psyched about returning to Siurana, and the guidebook is being studied!



Friday, 1 August 2014

EYBC L'Argentiere, France / Round 3 British Junior Boulder Championship, London

On my return from Spain, on 18th July, I had a day to re-pack and organise before I headed out with the GB Junior Boulder Team to L'Argentiere in France for an European Youth Cup. I enjoyed this trip, although I was a little disappointed with my result. I climbed well in the qualifiers and topped four problems, but then I failed on each of the next four on the very last move! This was very frustrating, and as I only topped four I did not manage to make finals. I am determined to do better at the next EYC, during August, in Austria. Here is a link to the BMC report of the event:

BMC L'Argentiere Report

On our return to London I was picked up by my family at Stansted airport, as I was competing at Round 3 of the British Junior Bouldering Championship, at the Arch Climbing wall, London, on 27th July. I was delighted to climb well at this competition, being the only climber (including the older category, Junior Boys) to top all 8 qualifiers. I also climbed strongly in the Finals, topping 2 out of 3 problems, and was delighted to win both this round and the overall Championship.


Youth A Boys - Championship Podium

After the competition finished we drove to Oxford to stay with my younger brother's Godparents. His Godfather, Anthony Reid, is a motor racing driver and I got the chance to sit in an Aston Martin Vantage



You can read about Anthony here http://www.anthonyreid.com/


Spain - July 2014

At the beginning of July I headed to La Manga, Spain for a family holiday. Although this was not to be a climbing holiday I knew I had to keep training, as I had an European Youth Boulder Cup competition on my return. I was lucky to be able to train at a local boulder wall, in La Union, owned by Club de Montana, Roller Masters, which I really appreciated. It was a great training wall, although very hot in the summer weather!

Club de Montana, Roller Masters

The Boulder wall, La Union, Spain

Working hard!
I also managed to climb at an indoor Lead wall in Murcia and do some outdoor climbing at a crag at Mula. As it was so hot during the day we climbed in the evening and looked for routes that were in the shade. Although I only had a short time climbing at Mula I managed to tick Sogun 8a, Sucina 8a+, and a bouldery climb through the roof of a cave, Lula 8a.

Here I am climbing at Mula -

Climbing Sogun, 8a

Sucina, 8a+
Mula is a winter crag, but I'm pleased that I braved the heat as the climbing was fun. I would like to return sometime to this area, during the winter, and climb at another local crag, Leyva.


EYCC 2014, EICA / Demoing at YCS Final, EICA / Fun at Dumbarton, June 2014

I have had a very busy summer of climbing, competitions, and fun. During the weekend of 14th/15th June I competed at the European Youth Climbing Championship, for Youth A boys, where I was delighted to make finals and finish in 8th place. I include the link to a BMC film of this event.

ifsc-european-youth-championships-2014

On the 28th June I was busy climbing again, this time demoing the routes for Youth A boys, at the British Youth Climbing Series Final, at EICA Ratho. The GB Junior Climbing Team were asked to volunteer at this event and demonstrate the routes. It was great fun and a privilege to demo for this category and the BMC organisers.

The following week was the start of my school holidays and I had lots of climbing friends from the GB team to stay, Molly Thomson-Smith, Jim Pope, Pete Dawson and Angus Davidson. We had great fun climbing during the day and watching scary movies at night. We climbed at Dumbarton Rock and I was delighted to climb my first 8A boulders (Pongo SS and Sabotage.)




video

Monday, 9 June 2014

Dumbarton Rock - 8th June 2014

On Sunday 8th June I drove through, with my Dad, to climb at Dumbarton. It was the first time I have climbed there and I really enjoyed it. When we arrived there was very heavy rain (typical west coast weather - it was sunny in Edinburgh) and we got very wet. However, where I was going to be climbing was sheltered and so the route I was keen to try, Sufferance, was dry. I got on to the route and worked the sequences, which I found quite tough as there were no chalk marks and the holds were not great.
Eating some lunch - as it was so wet underfoot it was easier to stay clipped in!
I worked it for a while and eventually found sequences that worked well for me - I was pleased to climb the route on my 2nd attempt and really enjoyed it.

Nearing the top of the route
At the top

Sufferance, 8a, is a very good route. I will definitely go back to Dumbarton soon.

  

EYC Imst - May 31st/ June 1st

I competed with the GB Junior Climbing team at the EYC in Imst, Austria. Unfortunately, I made a mistake on my second qualifier jumping for a hold and not quite catching it correctly - this meant that I didn't make the final and finished in 19th (out of 54.) I was disappointed because I knew that I could have climbed better. The Youth A category is really tough with many strong climbers, eg. Hannes Puman, SWE, Stefano Carnati, ITA, Georg Parma, AUT, etc. My next competition is the European Championship at Ratho, where I hope to do much better. 
On my first qualifier
photo - Tanya Rose


   

Round 2 British Junior Bouldering Championship

On Saturday 26th April I competed, at TCA Glasgow, in Round 2 of the British Bouldering Championship. The competition went well for me and I was delighted to win. As a result I have been selected to compete at two European Boulder Youth Cups this summer.

On the tricky Final problem 3. 

Monday, 7 April 2014

Winter Training and the SYBC 2014

Since my last blog I've been training really hard with Tom Randall and I'm feeling stronger than ever. I have had to travel down to Sheffield a lot for coaching and GB Team training events.
Working with Tom at his Lattice Board
Over the winter months I took part in my local wall's (Alien Rock) winter bouldering series, which I was pleased to win for the second year running. It's always great fun to take part in this competition.
Being presented with the Alien Rock trophy
My family also had a holiday in Ireland, during February half-term, where I competed at the Irish Youth Bouldering Championship. This was held at Gravity wall, Dublin, and I finished 2nd to Dominic Burns. We also travelled to Belfast and visited Eddie Cooper's new wall "Boulder World." It was great to meet up with all the Irish climbers and train at this fantastic new wall.

On Saturday 5th April, at TCA Glasgow, I took part in the Scottish Youth Bouldering Championship, in Youth A. It was a tough competition with some tricky problems, and I was competing against Dominic Burns again. After the qualifiers I was in first place but I knew the final would be intense. In the final I was pleased to top 2 out of the 3 problems, which meant I won by a top. The problems were all really hard and different styles. I was delighted to keep the Scottish Champion title for another year.
Youth A boys podium at the SYBC

I am now looking forward to a trip down to Malham, Yorkshire and a training trip, with the GB team, to Innsbruck and Imst walls in Austria.